Church of Santa Maria in Montesanto – the guardian of a square, an elegant, harmonious and balanced church

Piazza del Popolo, view of two churches – Santa Maria dei Miracoli and Santa Maria in Montesanto (on the left)

Piazza del Popolo, view of two churches – Santa Maria dei Miracoli and Santa Maria in Montesanto (on the left)

If we stand with our backs to the Porta del Popolo gate, we will experience an unusual view. At the intersection of three streets leading into the city, there are two churches. They are adorned by domes and column porticos which make us think of other, this time the most famous Roman structures – the antique Pantheon and, in miniature form, the most important church of the Catholic world – St. Peter’s Basilica (San Pietro in Vaticano). Single bell towers of both of the churches (one on one side and one on the other side of via del Corso) look like guards with halberds defending the enterance to the city, while at the same time reminding us of the fact that this is a holy city. One of these churches is dedicated to Santa Maria di Miracoli – the other, almost its twin – is the Santa Maria in Montesanto.

Piazza del Popolo, view of two churches – Santa Maria dei Miracoli and Santa Maria in Montesanto (on the left)
Church of Santa Maria in Montesanto between via del Corso and via del Babuino
Church of Santa Maria in Montesanto, main altar
Flat dome of the Church of Santa Maria in Montesanto, view from Pincio Hill
Church of Santa Maria in Montesanto, above the enterance plaque commemorating the foundation of Cardinal Girolamo Gastaldi
Santa Maria in Montesanto, view of the side chapels
Church of Santa Maria in Montesanto, Chapel of the Crucifix
Church of Santa Maria in Montesanto, the church bell tower

If we stand with our backs to the Porta del Popolo gate, we will experience an unusual view. At the intersection of three streets leading into the city, there are two churches. They are adorned by domes and column porticos which make us think of other, this time the most famous Roman structures – the antique Pantheon and, in miniature form, the most important church of the Catholic world – St. Peter’s Basilica (San Pietro in Vaticano). Single bell towers of both of the churches (one on one side and one on the other side of via del Corso) look like guards with halberds defending the enterance to the city, while at the same time reminding us of the fact that this is a holy city. One of these churches is dedicated to Santa Maria di Miracoli – the other, almost its twin – is the Santa Maria in Montesanto.

 


The construction of this church began in 1662 during the pontificate of Pope Alexander VII – an urbanist and constructor, who desired to bestow a new look upon this part of Rome. After some time the construction was halted for four years and finished in 1675. Exceptional architects of that period, participated in its design – initially Carlo Rainaldi and later Carlo Fontana. On the other hand, Gian Lorenzo Bernini, was to shape the domes of the two churches to make them appear as twin-like as possible. As opposed to the neighboring, circular in its plan Church of Santa Maria di Miracoli, this one, due to a narrow but elongated land plot, was built on the plan of an ellipse.

It is an accepted opinion, that initially columns of the church portico, were designed by Bernini for the bell towers of the Vatican Basilica, however after the catastrophic in consequences constructional “mishap” of the architect, they were used in this place. Similarly to the neighboring church, this one here is also decorated with figures of saints visible on the balustrade of the cornice, in this case these are Carmelites, sculpted by Bernini’s students. Why such saints? The reason is, that the church was created for the reformed Monte Santo Carmelites (Carmelitani del Primo Instituto), whose new order rule was approved by the pope in 1640. Then, they were also granted the right to settle in Rome and to build a monastery as well as a church, which was contributed to in a large part by Cardinal Girolamo Gastaldi. The inscription on the front of the church reminds us, that both the churches were created thanks to the financial support of the cardinal, who was buried in the one next-door. The church is dedicated to Our Lady of Mount Carmel, since according to tradition, Carmelites brought with them, a miraculous painting of the Madonna, from their original residence in the Holy Land.

The elliptic interior of the churches opens up with arcades onto chapels – three on each side, which are additionally decorated by pilasters with Corinthian capitols, found between them. It is topped off with a dome, supported on ribs and filled with windows, leading light inside. The modest entablature is a delicate decorative accord, which is accompanied by four choir galleries (cantorias), reminding us of music and songs, which sounded within. It is worth mentioning that in 1707, especially for this church, Händel composed his Vespers of Our Lady of Mount Carmel.

The part which is richest in decoration is the elongated apse with a decorative altar, designed by Mattia de Rossi and an icon found in its center (a copy from the XVI century) of Our Lady of Mount Carmel. It is flanked by busts of popes, during whose pontificate the church was built.

 

Looking from the enterance:

  •     Chapel of the Crucifix (first on the right) possesses rich stuccos from the XVII century. The two tondi found inside are also interesting. They were completed in the XIX century by a stucco artist Ferdinando Cavallèri: David with the Head of Goliath and Judith with the Head of Holofernes.
  •     Chapel of Purgatory (second on the right) catches the attention with lushly decorated altar with the painting The Supper at Emmaus by Riccardo Tommasi Ferroni, a contemporary painter who aided himself with the style of Mannerism and Baroque.
  •     Chapel of St. Anne (third on the left) is adorned with paintings by the XVII-century artist, Niccolò  Berrettoni. In main altar there is a painting representing the Holy Family.

On either side of the altar apse there are entrances to the former monastery (on the right) and sacristy (on the left). 

  •       The sacristy is worth seeing firstly, because it was designed by Carlo Fontana; secondly because of its frescoes (Angels in Heaven with the Instruments of the Passion), in the style of Baciccio, completed by an unknown artist
  •     Chapel of SS. James the Great and Francis of Assisi (third on the left) also merits interests, due to a painting of Carlo Maratti, depicting Our Lady with St. Francis.

As can be seen, the church does not offer many valuable works of art, nevertheless inside there are beautiful examples of typical for the Baroque decorations. In addition the interior is enriched by interesting works of contemporary art of religious themes (e.g. sculptures of the Stations of the Cross). Since 1953 the so-called “Masses of Artists have taken place in the church – every Sunday, Roman artists and figures connected with the cultural and artistic community gather here. They also take care of the harmony of this interior and the appropriate selection of decorations, since the church has been entrusted to the Community “Messa degli Artisti”.